Community
Social events, entertainment, bars, festivals, cafes, bookstores, etc.
Universidade Estadual do Vale Acaraú (UVA)
Campus is more or less LGBTQ-friendly, a significant number of Letras students are queer (it is an ongoing joke to talk about how few straight people and particularly straight men there are) and most of the professors are chill (but students mentioned often that they didn’t like a professor who has made homophobic comments with some regularity in the past and has been the source of some conflict - other than introducing ourselves we never had to work with him and he is easily avoidable; please contact for more information). It was infrequent, but there were a few on-campus parties or festivals over the course of the year that simply by virtue of the student body were fairly LGBTQ-friendly. Spend time in the courtyards and in the cantina during the students breaks!!! That’s how you become their friends and they’ll be more likely to come to activities or want to hang out with you outside of classes, plus the cantina is hella cheap and so worth it.
There are “vinholadas,” essentially outdoor parties by the river (na Margem do Rio) with speakers in the small amphitheater there and people selling drinks outside; these are often organized/frequented by large numbers of LGBTQ folks because it is mostly students, but there are also a lot of cishet folks who attend and there have been a few incidents of violence in the past (particularly against femmes that were outwardly gender non-conforming, a couple friends of mine mentioned having to run home because they had been threatened and someone showed them he had a knife in his pocket - this was not very frequent and queer folks generally stick together and take care of each other, your students and any friends you make will have your back and tell you what’s okay and what’s not).
The area by the river (a Margem do Rio) is one of the main/few places young people go to hang out, and depending on the day of the week/time of day can range from being a family-friendly Sunday to a venue for the São João festival (which you should totally go to!!!), shows and concerts (there is what is called the Concha that juts out into the river and most Thursday - Saturday evenings there is something going on there; ask students what pages on Instagram you should follow to know what’s going on), which are usually frequented by a lot of young and LGBTQ folks and is more or less a safe space (I felt comfortable making out with a guy there a couple times).
The Arco is one of the other main/few places young (queer) people go to hang out; you’ll often buy drinks in advance and then sit on the benches and kiki — more or less a safe space, but I perceived that there was less queer PDA and sometimes some staring, but the people in that area are hella accustomed to seeing young queer people so it’s generally not a problem, there are small shows at some of the restaurants nearby, and sometimes huge events take place there.
Donna C is the main bar/club you can go to on weekends and is “sem preconceitos,” largely a hella queer space (give or take a themed-night that queers aren’t interested in); they had just renovated it and got new owners as we were leaving.
The Joe’s Pub was probably the only other bar/club competing with Donna C (fingers crossed a couple others pop up) and it was a bit more bougie and straight, but a certain crowd of queer folks would also go there; I went there for a Regina George concert (a regional cover band) for Pride and that was a much more gay affair.
I do not recall the name of it, but there is also a bar near the Arco that was considered to be a space for queer women (“sapatãos”) that students could point out to you — I only found out about it as I was leaving Sobral.
Consider going to the theater, the Shopping, and any other events in the city (ask students about Instagram pages you can follow that will advertise them).
GO TO PRIDE! There wasn’t much of a Pride in Sobral, but I went to São Paulo and spent it with a bunch of other queer Fulbrighters. It was amazing!
Political/Social Environment
Resources assessing queer- and trans-friendliness in your country
I mentioned a lot of this above as well, but Sobral is a relatively safe (for Brazil and for the region), and the three universities attract a lot of young and LGBTQ people. It was an ongoing joke to talk about how few straight people and particularly straight men there are. The most common public spaces and places where young people go to hang out are more or less LGBTQ-friendly (Centro, Pedrinhas, by the Arco or Margem do Rio, etc.), although there are some spaces where PDA will be more or less common among queer folks and where you may receive some stares when you’re hanging out in a group. There have been past instances of violence (particularly against femmes that were outwardly gender non-conforming) but they are fairly infrequent and queer folks stick together/have each others’ backs. Your students and any friends you make will know and tell you what’s okay/not okay and where. In Pedrinhas/by the Arco you are also a block away from Donna C and on weekends you will see a number of trans folks, drag queens (I met at least 10 drag queens in the community, but there’s a bit of less-than-friendly cattiness and competition between them at times - but they’re rad and you should chat them up if you can), queers freely expressing themselves, PDA, etc. in that area. There were a few times where police broke up a fight or used a pepper bomb.
Grindr/Tinder will be a different landscape. On Grindr there are way more blank profiles, headless torsos, people who specify that they’re only looking for “machos” or “não afeminados” - basically these are masc4masc types, and men that identify as straight (who are called “héteros de Taubaté” alluding to a famous news story about a woman from a city by that name that pretended to be pregnant with a bunch of kids and implying that they’re probably queer but won’t give up their masculinity). Tinder just needs to be set at a 75-90km radius otherwise there aren’t very many people to even swipe for.
Legal
Laws that are accepting or discriminatory and legal resources specifically for LGBTQ persons
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Housing
One of the ETAs in Sobral lived in a room in a biology professor’s apartment (the program director helped set that up - an ETA has lived there both years so far).
The program director brought us to two or three different student housing options that were really affordable/communal, but we decided to pay more to stay in a suite in a hotel (two of the ETAs from the year prior had done the same). However, living with one of your co-ETAs can be really difficult at times and if I went through the experience again I would probably consider student housing or finding a place to stay with local roommates instead.
Facebook groups people can follow (you can type in republica, apartamento, areas like Centro or Pedrinhas, or university names or acronyms - the main ones being UVA, UFSC, and UNINTA, and LGBT; a common and more subtle way is to say “sem preconceitos”).
A website I never used myself but that students and people from there mentioned a lot was olx.
Other tips:
Tip 1: I would live in one of the main areas (Centro or Pedrinhas), ideally as close to UVA and the Arco as possible. The city is small and walkable if you live in these areas. (I lived in a hotel across from the Arco and could walk 10-15 minutes to UVA, 10-15 minutes to the Margem do Rio, 5-7 minutes to a grocery store, was really close to tons of restaurants and a few of the only places for young people to hang out including Donna C and The Joe’s Pub - there’s also a one or two block stretch that is a rather bougie area where a restaurant called Bricks is, most of your students will recognize it as bougie and feel that they can’t afford to go there but they are worth trying out for sure.)
Tip 2: Sobral is hot as f¯*** and having a place with natural air circulation, fans, and/or AC is crucial — I am from Minnesota and generally run hot, so having AC was important to me, but one of my co-ETAs lived without AC for the entire seven months we were there.
Health
Medical resources for LGBTQ persons in your community (special clinics, testing, treatment, pharmacies, etc.)
PrEP/STI-testing: Centro de Referência em Infectologia de Sobral (CRIS).
I went here and they are LGBTQ-friendly, it is relatively quick service (other than the first time when you are registering and getting your SUS card - you can get tested with your passport, but will need a CPF and whatnot to see a doctor and get a prescription for PrEP; I highly recommend getting a 3-month supply in the United States before arriving in Brazil to give yourself time to figure it out); syphilis seems to be the main STI concern, and they test you for Hepatitis alongside HIV and syphilis.
I did not use any mental health services there, but when I asked at CRIS they gave me the information about what it was called and where to find it. You can ask your students, especially psych and bio students, as well.
Culture
Podcasts, literature, movies, music, etc.
YOU NEED TO WATCH THE SHOW “GLITTER,” BASICALLY A REGION-SPECIFIC VERSION OF DRAG RACE THAT THERE ARE TWO SEASONS OF AND THAT YOU CAN WATCH ON YOUTUBE — all the bichas use slang and phrases from the show, make jokes about it, reference it a lot, etc. so it is really helpful for both Cearense and queer slang and culture.
Language
How to include trans/gender-nonbinary people in conversations in your country’s language(s)
“Mulher” - used to address queers/friends regardless gender; when emphasizing or being hella cearense or getting someone’s attention it can be pronounced “mulé” or “mulér” or “mulhé” — the most queer cearense phrase I’ve probably heard is “vala mulé!”
“Eaeeee” *more high-pitched and nasal* also works as a “heeeeeyyy” to your sisters here; I would often say/hear “eaeee mulhé”
Speaking more nasally in general is pretty gay, especially with words that have an ‘a’ at the end; porra will become “porran” for example
“Gay” gets used for queer women as well - I’ve literally been in a group and heard someone say things like “levanta gay!” or “bora gay”
“Bicha” gets used for for women too (especially queer women and women who are close with queer folks)
Sapatão - lesbian (didn’t hear sapa or sapatilha as much where I was living but I was also mostly around queer men)
Rebuceteio/recuceteio - buceta (“pussy”) and cu (“ass”) get mixed into these words to describe the small web of queer women/men/people respectively that have kissed or hooked up or dated or whatever else together and it doesn’t take much to connect everyone, especially in the smaller Brazilian cities
“Mana” - sis
You’ll hear/read “viada” instead of viado, particularly with femmes/drag queens/enbies
“Baitola” - another word similar to viado, but less common and seemed more pejorative than other words
“Menines” - gender-neutral y’all, or playing up being a queer militante
“Rolê” - party, going out, date
trans/travesti are used often and it didn’t seem stigmatized when a cis gay men would say something like “olhaa essa mulher trans maravilhosaa lindaa” or something else meant to be complementary (a femme/enby drag queen friend of mine who was close with a trans woman in the community who was transitioning even asked if he could feel her breasts in front of me once)
“Arrasar” will often get used in the third-person past without the ‘a’ at the beginning and just be ‘rrasou’ when you liked something or want to say an equivalent of “slay” or “werk”
“Pisar” (and “pisou”) get used in the same way as “arrasar,” and when texting I would see a friend use the heel emoji after
“Lacrar” (and “lacrou”) get used in the same way as “arrasar” as well
Get on Grindr and you’ll see a whole other language of its own there
It’s very 2009 apparently, but a good friend of mine still did this thing where he would just add “am” (nasal) at the end of words greeting people with “oieam” or saying goodbye with “tchauam” and so on
Sobralenses/Cearenses have their own accent:
You’ll hear the “r” puxado like in Rio (sounding closer to an “h” rather than a trilled “r” or interior paulista hard “r” that sounds almost American) and they pronounce “s” as a “sh” sound after the letter “t”/other consonants/with certain words;
People will eat a lot of their words or cut them down a little shorter (with older people especially it’s sometimes a WTF are you saying scenario but it gets easier)
Sobralense/Cearense Vocab:
valha - exclamation, people say it in response to everything! when emphasizing or being hella Cearense or it’s followed by something else it can be pronounced as just “vala”
bó (and “bora”) - a shortened version of “vamos embora” (“let’s go”)
vixe (pronounced “veesh”) - an exclamation you’ll hear people say when something didn’t work out or is a yikes type situation
vissar/frescar - verbs that mean to make jokes
é sal - something worked out, or you’re saying something is okay or alright
acolá - over there, way over there, over yonder
lacolá - same as above (there’s a phrase people say too: “lacolá… tem um cachorro bebendo água” because with the “l” in front it vaguely sounds like the sound you hear when a dog is drinking water
lástá - “lá está,” when you suddenly see something in the distance
desembaçar - softer way to say “get away”
armaria - shorted version of Ave Maria, used as an exclamation
baixa da égua - never heard it used unironically but essentially means “bumf*ck nowhere”
Senta lá Cláudia - an old meme, kinda like bye Felicia; nobody used it unironically and usually just to explain to me what it was
no banheiro - not necessarily grammatically correct but you’ll hear people use “no” as the preposition for that
massa - cool
dá hora/daora - “lit”
um beck - a joint
balinha - what you buy to make “um beck”
embaçar/atrapalhar - if you’re in an area that is “embaçado,” it means it’s an inconvenient spot and can’t smoke because police are around and might be watching
Race & Ethnicity
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Religion & Spirituality
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Like all our resources, our Brazil resources were recommended by Fulbrighters in the host country. Because of the vast and thorough resource collection the Brazil cohort of 2018-19 provided, we have copied their recommendations nearly verbatim. Please contact us if you have updated information.
Please contact us if you’d like to speak more with Joseph Rojas Jr., (he/him/his), ETA 2019, who wrote this page.